Tessa Laroche stands in the fermentation room, surrounded by stainless steel tanks and pours us a glass of the 2015 Domaine aux Moines. The pneumatic press behinds us makes some peculiar sounds. She raises her arms, like a conductor, moves her hands in time with the noise and with a slight bow emphasises the last commotion of the press.

Tessa is the maestro and the wine is her symphony.